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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.